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Planning a Trip to the Azores? Read This First

  • Writer: Kathleen Barr
    Kathleen Barr
  • 2 hours ago
  • 11 min read
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My two best friends and I just recently travelled to two remote islands in the Atlantic, 1400 km off the coast of Portugal and 500 km from the shores of Africa. We visited both São Miguel in the Azores and the island of Madeira, and each place completely blew us away in its own unique way.

The Azores are a series of autonomous islands owned by Portugal. They are gorgeous little farming islands, unlike anything I have seen before. São Miguel, the largest of the Azores, is incredibly lush, full of rolling green hills, farmland, and vibrant plant life. The roads are lined with massive hydrangea bushes in soft blues and purples, and flowers seem to grow absolutely everywhere. We couldn’t get over the natural beauty of this island. It felt like the whole island was blooming.


Madeira, on the other hand, feels like a tropical paradise with its steep cliffs, terraced hillsides, and stunning ocean views. The island is bursting with flowers too, and the winding roads lead through misty mountains, charming towns, and green gardens. Between the two islands, we found ourselves constantly in awe of nature, beauty, and culture.


This girls' trip started as a bucket list journey to Madeira, but when we found a direct flight to São Miguel in the Azores, we thought: why not? The Azores totally stole the show; we couldn’t believe the charm of this little island in the middle of the ocean. This blog will focus on the first half of our trip in São Miguel. To read my blog on Madeira, click this link. Here's how we spent our time on this beautiful Atlantic island. 


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A Few Things to Know Before You Go:


  1. The weather in São Miguel is unpredictable; it can be sunny in one area and pouring rain 10 minutes down the road. Weather apps are basically useless here, so don’t rely on them. Instead, check out Azores Cams, a network of live webcams around the island that show real-time weather conditions. It will save you from hiking in the fog and having no visibility once you get to your destination. The key is to stay flexible with your plans and go where the weather looks good that day.


  1. We stayed in Ponta Delgada, a quiet but beautiful city on the south-central coast. When we first arrived, it felt like a ghost town; most shops and restaurants were closed, and the streets were pretty empty. But by the end of our trip, it had completely transformed. The city was full of people, live music echoed through the streets, restaurants were packed, and the energy was amazing. It was fun to experience both sides of the city, having it to ourselves in the beginning, then seeing it come alive.


    Our first few days in Ponta Delgada we stayed in Ana Luisa Apartment which we booked through Airbnb. We had a seamless stay as the host was very responsive and accommodating. She allowed us to check in at 6am which was ideal after a all night red eye. The location was convenient and close to restaurants and shops. There is no parking on the street of the apartment but at the top of the hill coming down to the apartment there is a church with free parking so we used that for the week.


    The second half of our stay we checked into Azores Youth Hostel. This location was very prime, just a short walk to the main city square, gardens, marina and more. There was a large free parking lot behind the hostel which was very convenient and relaxing. It was a big relief to have guaranteed and safe parking for our last few days. The hostel is a beautiful and old building with lots of room options. We got a private double room with a shared bathroom. The hostel has a free continental breakfast included. 


  2. Renting a car is an absolute must here; it made exploring the island so simple and stress-free. We didn’t really notice much public transit or many taxis, so getting around without a car would likely be pretty challenging. We rented through Wonder Island and had a great experience. 

Their "SUV's" are small but mighty. Believe it or not this was our biggest vehicle of our trip lol.
Their "SUV's" are small but mighty. Believe it or not this was our biggest vehicle of our trip lol.

  1. Parking in the Azores is definitely not what we’re used to. You can pretty much park anywhere you can squeeze into, as long as there isn’t a sign that says "reserved." Some of the spots we ended up in had us laughing at how creative we had to get. Our Airbnb was on the west side of the city. Parking was a bit tricky in that area, but not impossible. We ended up parking on a one-way cobblestone street in a nearby church lot every day, as it was always open and free. For the second half of our trip, we stayed on the east side of the city, which came with a big bonus: a large free parking lot just behind our accommodations. It made things so much easier (and honestly, less stressful). You can check out the location of the lot below.


  1. When it came to eating out, we struggled a bit at both ends of the trip. At the beginning, a lot of places were closed. By the end, everything was so busy we couldn’t get a table without a reservation. I definitely recommend researching some spots in advance and making a few bookings, especially for dinner. Also, keep in mind that kitchens close earlier than in mainland Europe, usually around 9 p.m., so don’t plan to eat late.


  1. Pack your own lunches and snacks! We did this every day to save money and because food options can be limited when you're out hiking or in more remote areas. We also made our own breakfast each morning, which helped keep things simple and affordable. There are Pingo Doce grocery stores all over the island that are great grocery stores and very affordable. Something we would recommend for your trip is to bring a cooler bag. This will come in handy when packing lunches for your hikes and road trips.


  2. We got E Sims from the Saily app for our trip. This worked great for data and texting but not for calls. Definitely download Whats App before you leave Canada. 


  3. As always, we did all our cost sharing on Split Wise. This app makes travelling with friends so easy and painless as it keeps track off all your costs and who owes what for you. 


  4. Miradouro’s are lookouts. When driving places, we would add them as stops to our destinations and we saw some incredible lookouts this way.


  5. Lastly, pack layers! We were super lucky with the weather overall, but we still pulled out our raincoats a few times and threw on cardigans for dinner. And even if it’s cloudy, wear sunscreen; the Azorean sun comes out fast and strong.


Day 1 – Hydrangeas, Tea & Waterfalls

We landed at 6:30 a.m. in Ponta Delgada after an overnight red-eye with SATA Azores Airlines and picked up our rental car from Wonder Islands at the airport. They arranged a shuttle bus to pick us up. Our host was incredible and let us check in early to our Airbnb, which was a lifesaver.


After grabbing lunch from the grocery store, we explored a small beach and church near town to stretch our legs.


The first stop that really blew us away was Miradouro de Santa Iria, a lookout with unreal panoramic views of the ocean, cliffs, and rolling green hills. 


The gorgeous view from Miradouro de Santa Iria.
The gorgeous view from Miradouro de Santa Iria.

Next, we headed to the Gorreana Tea Plantation, where you can walk right through the tea fields and even sip on some of their fresh produce. We picked up fresh tea as souvenirs to bring home.


These tea fields go on forever!
These tea fields go on forever!

Then we made our way to Ribeira dos Caldeirões, a lush park with a huge waterfall and tropical plants everywhere. This was definitely a trip highlight for us! When walking up to this stunning and huge waterfall, you are greeted by hundreds of puffy blue, purple and white hydrangeas and so many other species of plants and flowers. You can walk further into the bush to see another smaller waterfall. There is a cute little cafe here as well as some old historic buildings. You will find another waterfall across the road that is also gorgeous. Overall, I would say this is a must-see, and to add this to your list. 


This spot was INCREDIBLE! A trip highlight for us.
This spot was INCREDIBLE! A trip highlight for us.

That night, we made dinner at our Airbnb and wandered around the streets of Ponta Delgada. We walked along the marina and promenade, which was quiet, peaceful, and overall a great end to our first day.


Day 2 – Crater Lakes & Ocean Views

We kicked off the day with another scenic lookout and then made our way to Sete Cidades, one of the most iconic places on the island. We broke up our drive by checking out the Miradouro Das Pedras Negras, a stop at a beautiful cliff lookout on the North West side of the island. 


We hiked around the Miradouro Grota do Inferno for panoramic views over twin lakes and volcanic craters. Our visibility was a bit hazy, but it still made for a moody but beautiful hike. On a sunny day, the blue and green lakes are even more stunning in person. Make sure to check the webcams for visibility before making the trek up!


One of the most amazing viewpoints on the island.
One of the most amazing viewpoints on the island.
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Next we visited Mosteiros, a village known for its beautiful coast and sunsets. A beautiful little beach town on the corner of the west side of the island. We had a delicious and fresh seafood lunch at O Chico’s then walked around the village. We checked out the black sand beach and the natural ocean pools. We didn’t get the chance but I highly recommend coming back here at sunset, apparently they have the best on the island.


Mosteiros natural hot pools
Mosteiros natural hot pools

We had fresh seafood for lunch at O Chico, and absolutely loved it. We got mussels and octopus and a side salad, and it was one of our favourite meals on our trip. 


Mussels & Octopus
Mussels & Octopus
Drinking Kima - the Azores own soda
Drinking Kima - the Azores own soda

After lunch we stopped at the Ponta da Ferraria natural pools. These pools were surprisingly really warm! We got here late in the day so it was packed, we would definitely recommend going early to avoid crowds. There are no lockers here, so leave any valuables locked in your car. Also we recommend to bring water shoes or sandals because the rocks here were sharp on the feet.


The hot pools are free to use! There are change rooms and washrooms on site.
The hot pools are free to use! There are change rooms and washrooms on site.

On our way back, we stopped at Miradouro Da Vigia Das Baleias, another lookout to take some more great views.


There are so many beautiful view points along the islands coast.
There are so many beautiful view points along the islands coast.
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To end our day we stopped at Plantação de Ananas dos Açores. A little outside of downtown you will find Quinta Augusto Arruda, a local pineapple plantation where you can try all kinds of locally grown pineapple and treats. They sell everything from fresh fruit to pineapple liqueur.


Rainbow over the pineapple plantation.
Rainbow over the pineapple plantation.
Pineapple sorbet, tarts and cocktails.
Pineapple sorbet, tarts and cocktails.

We had dinner in the main square of Ponta Delgada, which is a beautiful square with traditional architecture and cobblestone streets. Here you will find the Portas da Cidade, Convento de Nossa Senhora da Esperança, Igreja de São José, Forte de São Bras and more. The marina and promenade are also close by and lovely to stroll down in the day or evening. 


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Day 3 – Hot Springs & Island Adventures

We started the morning at Mercado da Graça, the local farmers' market. The market was under construction when we visited, so there was less variety of vendors and booths, but it was still a cute way to check out some of the local flavours. Be sure to check the signs, as some produce is imported, but we found some delicious local fruit to snack on.


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From there, we headed to Termas Dona Beija, beautiful hot springs surrounded by nature. We paid a $20 entry fee for a hour-long soak. It was warm, peaceful, and exactly what our bodies needed. Make sure to wear an older bathing suit and take off your jewelry! The water is high in sulphur and can oxidize your items and dye things orange. 


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Such a relaxing morning!
Such a relaxing morning!

In the afternoon, we drove to the port town of Vila Franca do Campo, had coffee at Do Morgado, and did a little shopping before catching the ferry to Ilhéu de Vila Franca, a crater island just off the coast. Ilheu de Vila Franca is a beautiful little island, perfect for snorkelling and walking. The water had algae in it so it wasn’t safe to swim on this trip but the snorkelling looked unreal, we could see so many colourful fish from above the water.  The ferry took us all around the island at the end so we got a good boat ride in as well.


Coffee at Do Morgado.
Coffee at Do Morgado.
This small island was formed from the collapsed crater of a submerged volcano.
This small island was formed from the collapsed crater of a submerged volcano.
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Views of the island from the water taxi.
Views of the island from the water taxi.

We ended our day at the Maia natural swimming pools. Another trip highlight was this hidden natural pool where you can dive off the rock and snorkel in crystal clear water. We got so lucky with this spot, we just happened to see it one afternoon when driving and came back when the weather was good. There were so many interesting fish and coral. We spent a few hours here tanning and swimming and snorkelling.


Another trip highlight!
Another trip highlight!

Day 4 – Off to Madeira!

We packed our bags and flew from São Miguel to Madeira via SATA Airlines. (Spoiler alert: Madeira was the trip of a lifetime, click here to read that blog!)


Back to São Miguel – Final Days

After exploring Madeira, we returned to São Miguel for three more days to soak up every last bit of sunshine, seafood, and scenery.


Day 12 – Return & Round Two in Sete Cidades

Once we arrived in Ponta Delgada, we grabbed lunch in the city, then headed straight back to Sete Cidades, because one visit simply wasn’t enough. The hydrangeas were even more lush and vibrant than before.


There are massive walls of hydrangeas all along the roads here.
There are massive walls of hydrangeas all along the roads here.

Day 13 – Waterfall Hike & Beach Day

This was one of our favourite days of the whole trip. We hiked the Trilho Moinho do Félix trail, which winds past multiple waterfalls and ends with a swim in the last one. This was one of my favourite hikes from our whole trip. It was challenging but fun, and the swim in the waterfall was so refreshing. We ate our packed lunch by the waterfall, soaking up the sun and fresh air.


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The trees were covered in blankets of morning glories!
The trees were covered in blankets of morning glories!
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This hike had everything from jungle, to waterfalls, to farmland and cliff-sides!
This hike had everything from jungle, to waterfalls, to farmland and cliff-sides!

In the afternoon, we hit Praia dos Moinhos, a beautiful and quiet surf beach. Cliffs full of red and blue flowers surrounded us, and the water was crystal clear, perfect for snorkelling. We ended the day with drinks at Moinho Terrace Café, a vibey little beach bar that served local beer and sangria.


The best beach of the trip.
The best beach of the trip.
Sipping Sangria at Moinho Terrace Café
Sipping Sangria at Moinho Terrace Café
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Dinner that night was at Tã Gente, probably the best dinner we had on the island. Tã Gente is a gorgeous little Tapas restaurant with beautiful indoor and outdoor seating, delicious food, creative cocktails and helpful staff. We got the Honey Mule to drink, then the Batata Brava, Mussels and Local Cheese and Meat board to share. The board had fresh Azores cheese, meat, jam, honey and pineapple. It was a great way to try all the local flavours at once. Afterward, we wandered through Ponta Delgada, where the Summer Nights Festival had just kicked off, with live music, hanging streamers, and people dancing in the streets. It was such a fun way to end our last full day.

The Honey Mule!
The Honey Mule!
A tapas board of local meats and cheeses
A tapas board of local meats and cheeses
The Summer Nights Festival in Ponta Delgada
The Summer Nights Festival in Ponta Delgada

Day 14 – Brunch, Botanical Gardens & Goodbye


Our last day. 


We started with brunch at Jardim Natural Food & Coffee, then walked it off through Jardim Botânico António Borges, a magical park with exotic plants, tropical trees, and little ponds. Ducks wandered freely, and we just took it all in. They are beautiful gardens filled with so many different species of plants and flowers. We had a great brunch and enjoyed our last morning wandering around the garden. 


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Before our flight, we snuck in one last beach stop at Praia das Milícias, a surf beach with soft sand and a laid-back feel. We read our books on the rocky shore and watched the waves roll in. Then it was off to the airport for our 6 p.m. flight back to Montreal.


We didn’t plan for São Miguel to be the star of the show, but it was. The Azores are lush, raw, and totally different from anywhere I’ve been before. I’m so happy I got to experience this place with my best friends, swimming, hiking, laughing, getting lost, and taking way too many hydrangea photos. I can't wait to go back to this amazing destination, and hopefully visit some of the other islands the Azores has to offer.



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Kathleen Barr

 

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